Heybeliada on the Last Day of Eid: Sherbet Scoops, Hillside Picnics, and a Changing Island

We spent the last day of Eid on Heybeliada, and the island was absolutely buzzing. The ferry over was packed with families, couples, and kids carrying beach balls and picnic bags. By the time we arrived, every green space was claimed blankets spread out under pine trees, thermoses of tea poured, börek passed around, music playing in the distance. It felt like summer had fully arrived.

We hiked up into the hills, where the shade gave some relief from the heat. Along the way, we passed families grilling, playing cards, and dozing off in the grass. The island was alive in that special holiday way full of joy, a little chaos, and so many familiar sounds of celebration.

After making our way back down to the pier, we stopped for ice cream. I had cherry and vanilla, and Vulcan went with pistachio and vanilla. It was more like a sherbet than classic dondurma lighter, icier but still delicious, especially after a long walk. Honestly, Istanbul still takes the crown for the best ice cream, but this hit the spot. We sat on a bench near the water, feet dangling, watching ferries come and go while the sun slowly started to dip.

One of the biggest changes I noticed since my last visit years ago: the horse-drawn carriages are gone. No more clatter of hooves through the cobbled streets. They've been replaced with small electric vehicles and bike taxis. The old phaetons are now just part of island memory romantic in theory, but their time has passed. It’s quieter now, and cleaner, and feels better for the animals and the environment.

Heybeliada still holds its unique charm historic wooden houses, the scent of grilled corn, little cats lounging in the shade

but it’s changing, just like everything else. What hasn’t changed is the way the island comes alive during the holidays, filled with families, food, and sunlight.

We left with sticky hands, full hearts, and the kind of content tiredness that comes from a day well spent in the sun.